Vetements

družbeni in kulturni pomen postsovjetske estetike v sodobni modi

Denis Pucelj (Author), Breda Luthar (Mentor), Maruša Pušnik (Co-mentor)

Abstract

Magistrsko delo predstavlja analizo postsovjetske estetike v sodobni modi in industrijskih teženj po njenem označevanju kot predstavnice sodobne antimode. Pri tem se delo osredotoča na načine, prek katerih sistem mode zamišlja biografije oblačil blagovne znamke Vetements, katere kolektiv ses-tavljajo modni oblikovalci iz držav Vzhodne Evrope. Skozi kritično analizo diskurza avtor anti-modnost Vetements opredeljuje kot konstrukt orientaliziranja, ki estetiko oblačil in artističnih praks opisuje v diskurzivnih kategorijah mitiziranja Vzhodne Evrope po padcu Berlinskega zidu. Kot avtor zagovarja, je v sodobni družbi znamčenje poglavitni ekonomski in kulturni proces, katerega naloga je zamišljanje biografij oblačil. Predmet opazovanja so tako bila 3 izbrana modna sodelovanja Vetements z zahodnimi blagovnimi znamkami: Vetements x Levi’s, Vetements x Tommy Hilfiger in Vetements x Eastpak. Skozi analizo je bila razkrita orientalistična binarna dihotomija vrednot, ki Vetements pozicionira kot transgresivno (Vzhodno) blagovno znamko, izbrane blagovne znamke pa kot ikonske, reprezentativne sodobnega, vsakdanjega, vseprisotnega (Zahodnega) načina življenja. Tako delo utemeljuje postsovjetsko estetiko oziroma njene reprezentacije v sodobni modi kot rezultat postkolonialističnih diskurzov.

Keywords

Vetements;antimoda;Estetika;Moda;Socializem;Orientalizem;Magistrska dela;

Data

Language:	Slovenian
Year of publishing:	2018
Typology:	2.09 - Master's Thesis
Organization:	UL FDV - Faculty of Social Sciences
Publisher:	[D. Pucelj]
UDC:	316.7:391(043.3)
COBISS:	35986269
Views:	1184
Downloads:	296
Average score:	0 (0 votes)
Metadata:

Other data

Secondary language:	English
Secondary title:	Vetements: Understanding the socio-cultural implications of Post-Soviet aesthetic in modern fashion
Secondary abstract:	Master's thesis introduces a critical reflection on current representations of post-soviet aeshetic in modern fashion and questions its modern anti-fashion role it inhabits in the global fashion market. The thesis therefore argues how biographies of clothes are constantly imagined and reproduced through the fashion system. The focus is put on fashion label Vetements, which fashion designers all have Eastern Europe origins. Using the method of critical discourse analysis, the author posits anti-fashion of Vetements as a product of orientalisation, through which the aesthetic and materiality of clothes are mythologized using imagery and myths of Eastern Europe after the fall of Berlin Wall. As the author argues, in modern society branding is key marketing tool through which biographies of clothes are imagined. The analysis is therefore focused on 3 key collaborations: Vetements x Levi's, Vetements x Tommy Hilfiger and Vetements x Eastpak. The author thus argues how these collaborations are based in reproducing the binary discoursive value system, through which the clothes of Vetements are orientalised as transgressive (Eastern), while the chosen brands are represented as dominant, everyday and global brands, which define the modern (West) way of life. In this way the thesis concludes how the use and representations of post-soviet aesthetic are results of post-colonial discoursive practices.
Secondary keywords:	Aesthetics;Fashion;Socialism;Orientalism;Master's theses;
Type (COBISS):	Master's thesis/paper
Study programme:	0
Embargo end date (OpenAIRE):	1970-01-01
Thesis comment:	Univ. v Ljubljani, Fak. za družbene vede
Pages:	64 str.
ID:	10988437