univerzitetni študijski program Kozmetologija
Sara Čebašek (Author), Pegi Ahlin Grabnar (Mentor)

Abstract

Dandanes smo ljudje, predvsem ženske, vse bolj obremenjeni s svojim zunanjim videzom. Pozorni smo na vse nepravilnosti na svojem telesu, ki jih želimo kar se da hitro in učinkovito odpraviti ter tako izgledati bolje. Ena izmed tegob sodobne družbe je tudi celulit. Običajno se pojav celulita začne s povečanjem deleža maščobe v našem telesu. Zadebelitev maščobnega tkiva v podkožju vodi do oteženega pretoka limfe in posledičnega zastajanja metabolitov v podkožju. Te snovi uničujejo vezivna, predvsem kolagenska vlakna, kar vodi v oslabitev vezivnega tkiva, zaradi česar maščobne celice silijo na površje in povzročajo videz pomarančaste kože oziroma celulit. V diplomski nalogi smo proučevali sestavo kozmetičnih izdelkov za odpravljanje celulita, in sicer smo izbrali 56 izdelkov, ki so dostopni na spletu, v drogerijah, lekarnah in bolje založenih trgovinah. Posebno pozornost smo posvetili kozmetično aktivnim sestavinam, ki smo jih glede na delovanje razdelili v štiri skupine. Analizirali smo tudi pogostost pojavljanja posameznih dišav in konzervansov. Ugotovili smo, da je najpogosteje uporabljena sestavina za pospeševanje mikrocirkulacije izvleček navadnega bršljana, med snovmi, ki inhibirajo lipogenezo in pospešijo lipolizo, pa prevladuje kofein, ki je prisoten v kar 43 % izdelkov. Med sestavinami za vzpostavitev normalne strukture dermisa in subkutanega tkiva smo najpogosteje našli retinil palmitat, α- tokoferol pa je najbolj priljubljen v skupini lovilcev radikalov. Izmed ostalih sestavin, ki jih ne moremo uvrstiti v nobeno omenjeno skupino, močno prevladuje mentol. Med dišavami iz Priloge III Uredbe o kozmetičnih izdelkih, se v izbranih kozmetičnih izdelkih najpogosteje pojavlja limonen, medtem ko 20 % izdelkov sploh ne vsebuje nobene dišave. Najpogosteje uporabljen konzervans je fenoksietanol, ki je prisoten v kar 43 % izdelkov. 20 % proučevanih izdelkov pa konzervansov iz Priloge V ne vsebuje. Na osnovi pregleda embalaže izbranih kozmetičnih izdelkov za odpravljanje celulita smo ugotovili, da se največ uporabljajo tube, ki omogočajo preprost nanos izdelka. Osredotočili smo se tudi na varnost in predvsem učinkovitost tovrstnih izdelkov, ki je pogosto dvomljiva. Zelo težko je namreč dokazati, da je kozmetični izdelek za odpravo celulita resnično učinkovit. Čeprav obstajajo testi in vitro, ki to potrjujejo, je število izvedenih testiranj in vivo premajhno, prav tako rezultati slednjih testiranj temeljijo predvsem na subjektivnem mnenju uporabnic, ki pogosto ni relevantno. Zato so v zadnjih letih v porastu predvsem invazivnejše metode, ki kozmetično aktivno sestavino dostavijo neposredno na tarčno mesto in na ta način zagotovijo njeno želeno delovanje.

Keywords

lipoliza;kolagenska vlakna;adipociti;

Data

Language: Slovenian
Year of publishing:
Typology: 2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
Organization: UL FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Publisher: [S. Čebašek]
UDC: 616-008.847.9+616-008.847.9 (043.2)
COBISS: 4534897 Link will open in a new window
Views: 846
Downloads: 308
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Other data

Secondary language: English
Secondary title: ǂA ǂstudy of the composition of cosmetic products for cellulite treatment
Secondary abstract: Nowadays, people, especially women, are more and more concerned with their appearance. We pay attention to every single flaw on our bodies, which we want to eliminate as quickly and effectively as possible in order to look better. One of the afflictions of contemporary society is cellulite. Usually, cellulite appears when our body fat percentage increases. The thickening of fatty tissue in the hypodermis leads to an obstructed lymph flow and, consequently, to the accumulation of radicals and other harmful substances in the hypodermis. These substances destroy the connective, mostly collagen fibres, which leads to the weakening of connective tissue, making the fat cells push towards the surface, which causes the appearance of orange-peel skin or cellulite. This diploma thesis studied the composition of anti-cellulite cosmetic products; 56 products were selected, which are available online, at chemist’s shops, pharmacies, and well-stocked shops. Special attention was devoted to cosmetic active ingredients, which were divided into four groups based on their mechanism of action. It also analysed the frequency of the presence of individual fragrances and preservatives. It has been established that the most commonly used ingredient for accelerating microcirculation is the common ivy extract, whereas the predominant substance for inhibiting lipogenesis and accelerating lipolysis is caffeine, which is present in 43% of the products. The most common ingredient for restoring the normal structure of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue is retinyl palmitate, while α-tocopherol is the most popular radical scavenger. Among the other ingredients, which could not be categorised under any of the above-mentioned groups, menthol was prevalent. Among the fragrances listed in Annex III to the Regulation (EC) on Cosmetic Products, the selected cosmetic products most often contained limonene, whereas 20% of the products contained no fragrances whatsoever. The most commonly used preservative is phenoxyethanol, which is present in as many as 43% of the products. 20% of the examined products do not contain any of the preservatives mentioned in Annex V. After reviewing the packaging of the selected anti-cellulite cosmetic products, it has been established that tubes are predominant, enabling easy application of the product. The thesis also focused on the safety and, above all, efficiency of such products, which is often questionable. It is very difficult to prove that an anti-cellulite cosmetic product is truly effective. Even though there are in vitro tests confirming it, the number of performed in vivo tests is too small; moreover, the results of the latter tests are based mainly on the subjective opinions of users, which are often irrelevant. For this reason, recent years have witnessed the rise of more invasive methods, which deliver the cosmetic active ingredient directly to the target site, thus ensuring the desired action.
Secondary keywords: Celulit;Maščevje;Kozmetični izdelki;
Type (COBISS): Bachelor thesis/paper
Thesis comment: Univ. v Ljubljani, Fak. za farmacijo, študij kozmetologije
Pages: V, 59 f.
ID: 12025777