Eva Tivadar (Author), Aleš Obreza (Mentor)

Abstract

Rjava polt predstavlja enega izmed pomembnih trendov na področju lepote v kulturi zahodne družbe. Zaradi skrbi po ohranjanju zdravja kože prednost pred sončenjem in uporabo solarijev dobivajo kozmetični izdelki za samoporjavitev. Ti po priljubljenosti počasi izpodrivajo tudi kozmetične izdelke za doseganje porjavitve s pomočjo sončne svetlobe. V diplomski nalogi smo raziskovali samoporjavitvene kozmetične izdelke, ki so dostopni na slovenskem tržišču v fizičnih prodajalnah (drogerijah in lekarnah) in v spletnih trgovinah. Zanimalo nas je, katere glavne kozmetično aktivne sestavine za porjavitev kože vsebujejo in kakšen je njihov mehanizem spremembe barve polti. Preverili smo tudi izbiro sekundarnih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin, ki jih proizvajalci največkrat uporabijo kot podporo za delovanje glavne oziroma krepitev njenega učinka, s čimer zagotavljajo enakomeren in obstojnejši rezultat; razdelili smo jih v različne kategorije: vlažilce, emoliente, antioksidante in UV-filtre. Pri analizi izbranih izdelkov smo pozornost posvetili še pomožnim snovem – konzervansom, sredstvom za spreminjanje viskoznosti in silikonom, saj so mikrobiološka kakovost, ustrezna konsistenca in senzorične lastnosti pri tovrstni kozmetiki zelo pomembni že v procesu načrtovanja kakor tudi kasneje v času uporabe kozmetičnega izdelka. Vseh 70 analiziranih izdelkov je vsebovalo dihidroksiaceton, primarno aktivno sestavino za samoporjavitev, v isto kategorijo pa smo uvrstili še eritrulozo, ki se je v kozmetičnih izdelkih pojavila manj pogosto. Največkrat uporabljena vlažilca sta bila glicerol in butilenglikol. Pri izbiri emolientov se je največ proizvajalcev odločilo za vgrajevanje glicerilstearata ter triglicerida kaprilne in kaprinske kisline, med antioksidanti pa sta prevladovala tokoferol in tokoferilacetat. Nekateri izdelki so vsebovali UV-filtre, izmed katerih sta se največkrat pojavila benzilsalicilat in titanov dioksid. Pri pomožnih snoveh je bil najpogosteje uporabljen konzervans fenoksietanol, ksantanski gumi prevladujoč modifikator viskoznosti in dimetikon vodilni predstavnik silikonov.

Keywords

pigmentacija kože;dihidroksiaceton;samoporjavitev kože;

Data

Language: Slovenian
Year of publishing:
Typology: 2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
Organization: UL FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Publisher: [E. Tivadar]
UDC: 665.5(043.2)
COBISS: 4605041 Link will open in a new window
Views: 297
Downloads: 71
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Other data

Secondary language: English
Secondary title: Study of active cosmetic ingredients and excipients in skin tanning cosmetic products
Secondary abstract: A tan look is one of the most recent and popular beauty trends in today's modern society. At the same time, people are more aware of the harmful effects of sunbathing and UV-radiated indoor tanning. The consumer's desire for a healthy bronze skin tone has provoked cosmetic scientists to start looking for alternatives, which has lead to the rise of self tanning cosmetic products. In this diploma thesis we investigated self tanning cosmetic products that are available on the Slovenian market in drugstores and pharmacies as well as in online shops. We examined the main active cosmetic ingredients which provide a skin tan without exposure to UV radiation and their mechanism of action. We also investigated the secondary actives, such as humectants, emollients, antioxidants and UV-filters, different producers used in their cosmetic formulations with the aim to emphasize the effect of the product and ensure a homogenous and long lasting result. Furthermore, we analysed cosmetic excipients like preservatives, viscosity modifiers and silicons, since microbiological quality, appropriate consistency and sensory properties represent the most important factors while formulating and later in the time of usage of self tanning cosmetics. All of the 70 examined cosmetic products contained dihydroxyacetone, the main active ingredient for the self tanning of skin; another ingredient with the same mechanism of action was erythrulose, which was detected in fewer products. The most frequently used humectants were glycerin and butylene glycol. When choosing emollients, the majority of cosmetic formulators opted for glyceryl stearate and the triglyceride of caprylic and capric acids. Among the antioxidants, the most frequent were tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate. Some of the investigated products also included UV-filters, mostly benzyl salicylate and titanium dioxide. Discussing the excipients, phenoxyethanol as a preservative, viscosity modifier xanthan gum and dimethicone from the silicone group predominated in our chosen products.
Secondary keywords: Kozmetični izdelki;
Type (COBISS): Bachelor thesis/paper
Thesis comment: Univ. v Ljubljani, Fak. za farmacijo, študij kozmetologije
Pages: VII, 42 f.
ID: 12038956