Oblačilna kultura 19. stoletja na slovenskem Štajerskem v primerjavi s hrvaškim Zagorjem

diplomsko delo

Lucija Pavleković (Author), Mateja Kos (Mentor)

Abstract

Dolgo 19. stoletje je obdobje, ko so se v svetu mode zgodile številne spremembe. Največji vpliv na to je imela francoska revolucija ob koncu 18. stoletja, kasneje pa je bil bistven razvoj industrije, ki je omogočil cenejšo in hitrejšo proizvodnjo blaga za izdelovanje oblačil. Pozneje se je razvila tudi konfekcija, ki je oblačila še pocenila ter jih naredila dostopna širši množici ljudi. Konfekcijska oblačila so prav tako zmanjšala razliko v oblačilnem videzu med različnimi družbenimi sloji. V začetku stoletja so prevladovala oblačila, ki so bila osvobojena neudobnih steznikov in krinolin, s časom pa so se ti kosi vrnili v modo. Sredi stoletja so ponovno prevladovala oblačila, ki so močno spominjala na modo 18. stoletja. Stezniki, ki so bili ob dolgotrajni noši škodljivi za notranje organe, in nepraktične krinoline so bili ponovno opuščeni na prelomu 20. stoletja. Takrat so se pojavila reformirana, udobnejša in preprostejša ženska oblačila. Moška moda se skozi stoletje ni spreminjala tako drastično kot ženska. V prvi polovici stoletja je prišlo do opustitve dokolenskih hlač, prevladale pa so dolge in oprijete hlače, imenovane pantalone. Najpomembnejši moški kos oblačila v celem stoletju je bil frak, ob koncu stoletja pa se je pojavil smoking, ki je aktualen še danes. Štajersko meščanstvo in plemstvo je modo večjih evropskih modnih središč posnemalo skoraj sočasno, morda le v nekoliko skromnejši in bolj zadržani izvedbi. Največji vpliv na oblačilni videz prebivalstva Štajerske je imel zagotovo cesarski Dunaj. Pomembna so bila tudi bližnja velika mesta, kot sta Gradec in Trst. Moda se je v naše kraje širila predvsem z modnim tiskom, ki je objavljal grafike najnovejših smernic velikih modnih prestolnic. Na tem področju ni zaostajalo niti hrvaško Zagorje, kjer se je moda razvijala sočasno s tisto na Štajerskem.

Keywords

diplomska dela;moda;oblačilni videz;krinoline;stezniki;Štajerska;Zagorje;19.st.;šivalni stroji;konfekcijska oblačila;materiali;

Data

Language:	Slovenian
Year of publishing:	2016
Typology:	2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
Organization:	UM FF - Faculty of Arts
Publisher:	[L. Pavleković]
UDC:	391(497.4:497.5)"18"(043.2)
COBISS:	22559240
Views:	2802
Downloads:	191
Average score:	0 (0 votes)
Metadata:

Other data

Secondary language:	English
Secondary title:	19th century clothing in Slovenian Styria in comparison with Croatian Zagorje
Secondary abstract:	Long 19th century was a period of numerous changes in the world of fashion. At first the French revolution was the largest influence on fashion, but later on, the development of industry became essential, because it enabled cheaper and faster production of materials. Following the development of the industry, confection appeared which further lowered the price of clothes and made them available to bigger masses of people. Confection also reduced the differences in fashion among various social classes. At the beginning of the century, simple and light clothes prevailed, freed of corsets and crinolines, which became fashionable once more later on. Clothes and fashion of the mid- 19th century strongly resembled that of the previous century. Corsets that were damaging to the internal organs, if worn for a longer period of time, and impractical crinolines were neglected once again at the break of the 20th century, when women's clothing was reformed and it became more comfortable and simpler. Men's clothing did not change as dramatically as women's during the same period of time. In the first few years of the 19th century knickerbockers fell out of fashion and were substituted by tight pants named pantaloons. The most important piece of men's clothing in the 19th century was the tailcoat, which was later replaced with tuxedo that is still fashionable today. The nobility and bourgeoisie of Styria followed the fashion trends of larger European cities almost simultaneously. The only difference was that the clothes were slightly more modest and conservative. Vienna had the largest influence of Styrian fashion, but cities such as Graz and Trieste were also important. Fashion trends spread mainly through fashion magazines, which published graphics of the latest trends in European fashion capitals. Fashion of Croatian Zagorje was developing simultaneously with Styrian fashion.
Secondary keywords:	theses;fashion;style;crinolines;corsets;Styria;Zagorje;19th century;sewing machines;confection;materials;
URN:	URN:SI:UM:
Type (COBISS):	Bachelor thesis/paper
Thesis comment:	Univ. v Mariboru, Filozofska fak., Oddelek za umetnostno zgodovino
Pages:	63 f.
ID:	9165557