diplomsko delo
Povzetek
Iz praznične kmečke noše se je čez stoletja izoblikovala narodna noša, ki danes služi kot kostum za posebne priložnosti. Razlikovanje ljudi po načinu oblačenja, materialih, ki jih potrebujejo za svojo obleko, in številčnosti oblek sega že daleč v zgodovino in se uporablja tudi danes. Še zmeraj ljudje skrbijo za razredno raznolikost glede na oblačila in uniforme, ki jih zapovedujejo dane službe. Tudi naše ozemlje v času 17. in 18. stoletja v tem ni bilo izjema. Ljudje so se ločevali po premoženju, torej družbenem statusu. Predvsem se je razlikovala njihova noša glede na posameznikove zmožnosti, najbolj pa so na to raznolikost vplivali gospodarstvo, družbeni, politični in predvsem podnebni dejavniki. Meščanstvo in plemstvo na naših tleh je sledilo enaki modi kot drugi predeli Evrope, kar se je na začetku kazalo s pomočjo španske mode in kasneje ob koncu s francosko. Vendar je na naših tleh prevladovalo kmečko prebivalstvo, katerih obleko so od 16. stoletja zapovedovala pravila, spisana v Policijskih redih. Zapisano je bilo, kaj lahko ljudje na podeželju oblečejo, katere materiale lahko za oblačila uporabijo in koliko denarja lahko za obleko odštejejo. Ti zapisi so do 18. stoletja sproti pričeli izgubljati na veljavi. Kot zapisujejo Policijski redi, je bil omejen tudi uvoz samih materialov, saj so želeli, da se uporabljajo materiali, pridelani na domačih tleh in tako poskrbijo za razvoj domačega gospodarstva. Oblikovanje oblačil je ena izmed najstarejših človekovih dejavnosti, ki je pri nas razvita na celotnem ozemlju, vendar ponekod bolj in ponekod manj zastopana. Veliko materiala so izdelali na območju Štajerske in predvsem Kranjske, kjer jim je uspelo izdelali celo lastno nošo tistega obdobja. Noša se je od drugih pokrajin najbolj razlikovala, vendar je nujno dodati, da so okoliške pokrajine kar hitro pričele s kopiranjem in posnemanjem posameznih kosov in krojev. Zato velikokrat srečamo razne podobne ali celo enake značilnosti na različnih predelih.
Ključne besede
diplomska dela;oblačilna kultura;17./18.st.;Slovenija;oblačilni materiali;obrti;barok;noše;Štajerska;Kranjska;kulturna dediščina;
Podatki
Jezik: |
Slovenski jezik |
Leto izida: |
2015 |
Tipologija: |
2.11 - Diplomsko delo |
Organizacija: |
UM FF - Filozofska fakulteta |
Založnik: |
[T. Sprinčnik] |
UDK: |
391(497.4)"16/17"(043.2) |
COBISS: |
21587208
|
Št. ogledov: |
1497 |
Št. prenosov: |
170 |
Ocena: |
0 (0 glasov) |
Metapodatki: |
|
Ostali podatki
Sekundarni jezik: |
Angleški jezik |
Sekundarni naslov: |
Comparison of the 17th and 18th century Slovenian regional clothing |
Sekundarni povzetek: |
From festive peasant costumes, over the centuries, a national costume was created, which today serves as a costume for a special occasion. Differentiating people by the way they dress, by materials that they use for their clothes, and the numerousness of clothes goes back far in history and is used even today. People still take care of social class diversity in terms of clothing and uniforms that are dictated by a given service. Also our territory during the 17th and 18th century was no exception. People were separated by assets, therefore, by social status. Above all, it is their costumes that differed depending on the individual's means, while the highest influence on the diversity had the economy, social, political, and especially climatic factors. The bourgeoisie and the aristocracy on our territory followed the same fashion as other parts of Europe, which at the beginning has shown with the help of Spanish fashion and later at the end with French. However, the rural population dominated on our soil, whose clothes from the 16th century on were prescribed by the rules written in Police orders. It was written, what people in the countryside can wear, which materials can be used for clothing and how much money can be paid for the dress. These records began to lose force until the 18th century. As written in the Police orders, also the import of the materials was restricted, because they wanted that materials produced on home soil were used, and this way also provide for the development of the domestic economy. Fashion design is one of the oldest human activities and is developed throughout the territory, but sometimes more and sometimes less represented. Much of the material was produced in Styria, and in particular Carniola where they managed to create their own costume of that period. The costume has differed from other regions the most, but it is necessary to add that the surrounding regions quickly began copying and imitating individual pieces and patterns. Therefore, we often encounter a variety of similar or even identical characteristics in different areas. |
Sekundarne ključne besede: |
theses;clothing culture;17th/18th cent.;Slovenia;clothing materials;handicrafts;Baroque;costume;Styria;Carniola;cultural heritage; |
URN: |
URN:SI:UM: |
Vrsta dela (COBISS): |
Diplomsko delo/naloga |
Komentar na gradivo: |
Univ. v Mariboru, Filozofska fak., Oddelek za umetnostno zgodovino |
Strani: |
67 f. |
ID: |
8880166 |