Tamara Galjot (Avtor), Marija Sollner Dolenc (Mentor)

Povzetek

Z današnjim slogom življenja se vsakodnevno srečujemo in uporabljamo različne kozmetične izdelke. To je opazno tudi pri široki ponudbi izdelkov, ki jih najdemo v trgovinah. Proizvajalci se z različnimi načini trudijo pridobiti kupce, eden od teh je tudi prijeten vonj izdelka, katerega dosežejo z dodajanjem različnih dišav. Navadno so to hlapne spojine s prijetnim vonjem. V kozmetičnih izdelkih se lahko uporabljajo za maskiranje neprijetnega vonja ostalih sestavin, ali za zagotavljanje prijetnega vonja izdelka in s tem tudi uporabnika. V grobem jih glede na izvor delimo na naravne in sintezne, vendar se moramo zavedati, da naravno ne pomeni vedno varno. Kozmetični izdelki se večinoma nanašajo na zunanje dele človeškega telesa (njihovo uporabo omejuje zakonodaja), kar pomeni, da moramo za dobro razumevanje učinkov dišav v kozmetičnih izdelkih na telo poznati strukturo in lastnosti kože. Ti izdelki se na koži navadno zadržujejo krajši čas in dišave so prisotne v manjših koncentracijah, tako da so neželeni učinki povezani predvsem z delovanjem na kožo. Dišave lahko povzročijo različne neželene učinke na koži, kot so preobčutljivostne reakcije in posledično alergijski kontaktni dermatitis, lahko povzročijo draženje kože, nastanek koprivnice, težave pa lahko nastanejo šele po izpostavljenosti UV sevanju, posledica česar so fotoreakcije. Najpogostejši neželeni učinki dišav so različne preobčutljivostne reakcije, saj nekatere dišave delujejo alergeno (kot hapteni, prehapteni in prohapteni). SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, Znanstveni odbor za varnost potrošnikov) je v obširnem mnenju o alergenih dišavah izpostavil 26 najbolj alergenih, katerih prisotnost v kozmetičnem izdelku mora biti navedena na embalaži (po Uredbi št.1223/2009 Evropskega parlamenta in sveta o kozmetičnih izdelkih). To velja za vse države Evropske Unije, v ZDA pa za označevanje vseh dišav zadostuje izraz "parfum" oziroma "fragrance". V diplomskem delu smo želeli preveriti, katere dišave se najpogosteje pojavljajo v različnih kozmetičnih izdelkih in s pomočjo literaturnih podatkov oceniti njihovo varnost. Naključno smo izbrali 57 kozmetičnih izdelkov različnih skupin (mleko za telo, gel za prhanje, dezodoranti in antiperspiranti, parfumi) in pregledali, katere dišave vsebujejo. Ker proizvajalci dišave navajajo pod skupnim imenom parfum, razen 26 dišav, katerih prisotnost mora biti označena (v kolikor je njihova koncentracija večja od 0,001% v izdelkih, ki se ne izpirajo in 0,01% v izdelkih, ki se izpirajo), smo se osredotočili na te dišave. Med pregledanimi izdelki so bile najpogosteje uporabljene dišave linalol (vsebuje ga 70,2% izdelkov), limonen (68,4%), butilfenil metilpropional (59,6%), citronelol (54,4%), geraniol (50,9%), heksilcinamal (45,6%), alfa izometil ionon (42,1%) in kumarin (40,4%). Med vsemi izdelki je bilo le 9 takih, ki ne vsebuje nobene od prej omenjenih 26 dišav, ostali izdelki pa so vsebovali večje število različnih dišav hkrati. V literaturi smo poiskali toksikološke podatke najpogosteje uporabljenih dišav in ocenili njihovo varnost. Dišave se v kozmetičnih izdelkih uporabljajo v majhnih koncentracijah in njihova uporaba je pogosto omejena z IFRA (International Fragrance Association, Mednarodna zveza za dišave) standardi, zato akutna toksičnost in toksičnost pri ponovljivih odmerkih ne predstavljata velike nevarnosti, saj ima večina teh dišav visoke LD50, NOEL, NOAEL, LOEL in LOAEL vrednosti. Vse zgoraj omenjene dišave so nevarne predvsem zaradi alergenega delovanja, nekatere lahko tudi dražijo kožo. Od najpogosteje uporabljenih dišav smo kot najmanj varno ocenili kumarin, saj ima visok potencial za preobčutljivostne reakcije ter razmeroma nizke LD50 in NOAEL vrednosti. Kot najbolj varne dišave smo ocenili butilfenil metilpropional (lilial), citronelol in geraniol, ki pa vseeno lahko delujejo alergeno. Pozorni moramo biti tudi pri uporabi dišav, katerih alergenost se močno poveča, če pride do avtooksidacije (linalol, limonen, citronelol in geraniol), čemur se lahko izognemo z ustreznim shranjevanjem kozmetičnega izdelka. Pri uporabi kozmetičnih izdelkov, ki vsebujejo večje število dišav (predvsem alergenih), moramo biti pozorni na morebitne neželene učinke na koži (rdečica, mehurji, luščenje kože ipd). Pomembno je tudi, da ob morebitni alergiji vemo, katera dišava je za to odgovorna in se izogibamo uporabi izdelkov, ki jo vsebujejo. Težje se izognemo dišavam, katerih prisotnost ni posebej navedena na embalaži, ampak so zajete pod skupnim imenom parfum. Tudi te dišave so lahko manj varne za uporabo, saj nekatere delujejo kot motilci endokrinega sistema.

Ključne besede

kozmetični izdelki;dišave;koža;neželene reakcije;uporaba dišav;kontaktni dermatitis;varnost dišav;

Podatki

Jezik: Slovenski jezik
Leto izida:
Izvor: Ljubljana
Tipologija: 2.11 - Diplomsko delo
Organizacija: UL FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
Založnik: [T. Galjot]
UDK: 616.5+665.5
COBISS: 3517297 Povezava se bo odprla v novem oknu
Št. ogledov: 1004
Št. prenosov: 674
Ocena: 0 (0 glasov)
Metapodatki: JSON JSON-RDF JSON-LD TURTLE N-TRIPLES XML RDFA MICRODATA DC-XML DC-RDF RDF

Ostali podatki

Sekundarni jezik: Angleški jezik
Sekundarni naslov: Assessment of the safe use of fragrances in cosmetic products
Sekundarni povzetek: Our lifestyle nowadays means we are constantly in touch with various cosmetic products we use on a daily basis. This is evident also in a variety of products that can be found in stores. Manufacturers try to convince consumers to buy their products by using different persuasive techniques. One of them is a pleasant smell of their products, achieved by adding different fragrances. These are usually aromatic volatile compounds. They can be used in cosmetic products to mask the unpleasant smell of other ingredients, or to make sure the end product has a pleasant scent, thus persuading the consumer. In general they can be divided into natural and synthetic, considering the source, but we must not forget that natural does not always mean safe. Cosmetic products are largely meant for external use only (their use is limited by law), which means we have to have a great deal of knowledge about skin structure and properties to understand how the fragrances in cosmetics affect our bodies. Cosmetic products are usually kept on the skin only for a short amount of time, and contain small concentrations of fragrances, therefore the side effects primarily concern skin reactions. Fragrances can cause various adverse effects on the skin, such as sensitization and, consequently, allergic contact dermatitis, can cause skin irritation or urticaria, while some problems can occur only after being exposed to UV radiation, resulting in photoreaction. The most common side effects of fragrances are various sensitization reactions, as some fragrances have allergenic properties (such as haptens, prehaptens and prohaptens). SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) prepared an elaborate opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, highlighting 26 most allergenic fragrance substances. These ingredients must be listed individually on the label of cosmetic products (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products). This applies to all member states of the European Union, while in the USA the term 'perfume' is sufficient for labeling all fragrances. In this diploma thesis we would like to analyze which fragrances are most frequently used in various cosmetic products and assess their safety using information from literary sources. We randomly selected 57 cosmetic products from different categories (body lotion, shower gel, deodorants and antiperspirants, perfumes) and took a closer look at the fragrances they contained. Since manufacturers list fragrances collectively as perfume (or fragrance), with the exception of 26 fragrances that should be listed individually (when the concentration is higher than 0.001% for leave-on products and 0.01% for rinse-off products), we have focused on those fragrance substances. Most commonly used fragrances in out test products were linalool (in 70.2% of all products), limonene (68.4%), butylphenyl methylpropional (59.6%), citronellol (54.4%), geraniol (50.9% ) hexyl cinnamaldehyde (45.6%), alpha-isomethyl ionone (42.1%) and coumarin (40.4%). Among the test products only 9 were fragrance free, while other products contained a combination of several fragrances. Using literary sources we found the toxicological data on the most frequently used fragrances and assessed their safety. Fragrances in cosmetic products are used in low concentrations and their use is often limited by IFRA (International Fragrance Association) standards. Thus acute toxicity and repeated dose toxicity do not pose a significant risk, as most of these fragrances have high LD50, NOEL, NOAEL, LOEL and LOAEL values. All of the above mentioned fragrances are dangerous mostly because of their allergenic properties, and some may also irritate the skin. We have estimated that the least safe among most commonly used fragrances is coumarin because it has a high potential for sensitization reactions and the relatively low LD50 and NOAEL values. The safest estimated fragrances are butylphenyl methylpropional (Lilial), citronellol and geraniol, but they can still have allergenic properties. We must be extra cautious with fragrances whose allergenic effect is greatly increased by autoxidation (linalool, limonene, citronellol and geraniol), which can be avoided by properly storing all cosmetic products. When using cosmetic products with a large amount of fragrances (especially allergenic), we must pay attention to potential adverse effects on the skin (redness, blistering, peeling skin, etc.). If an allergic reaction occurs it is also important to know which fragrance caused it to avoid such products in the future. It is much harder to avoid fragrances which are not individually listed on the packaging and are only mentioned as 'perfume' or 'fragrance'. These fragrances may not be safe to use as well, because some of them can act as endocrine disruptors.
Vrsta dela (COBISS): Diplomsko delo
Komentar na gradivo: Univ. v Ljubljani, Fakulteta za farmacijo
Strani: XIV, 74 f.
ID: 12053338